Add a full Three Inches to your chopper

[Roboframer]

.... and be able to clean it out more easily too!

[Merlin]

Snap!!!
We did this about 5 years ago. A God send.

We managed to find a (dare I say it - ) cat litter tray which is approx 3" deep, to catch the shavings in. At the back (on the inside) of the machine we have placed a piece of MDF to act as a shute.



The 'steps' were made for our part timer who was rather short in the legs. Bless !!!!!

[Not your average framer]

I've been thinking about doing that or getting one of those heavy duty vacuum cleaners to clear out behind the Morso.

Don't ask me how, but my wife has developed the technique of raking the bits out through the slots at the front using a scrap piece of moulding.

I think I prefer the vacuum cleaner myself!

[Not your average framer]

Hi John (Merlin),

You've just given me a great idea. My Morso also has moulding racks on the wall behind, but mine don't come down below head height.

So all I have to do is saw a couple of feet off of the length of the bench, move the Morso away from the wall and add more racking.

Thanks for the inspiration!
Mark

BTW, there isn't any more room than when you saw the place before, but I am getting rid of quite a bit of stock to try and find some more space. It's a long task!

[Merlin]

Hi Mark
Like you we are very short of space in our two workshops.
Here are some shots of the back workshop with the Morso and the old Cassesse underpinner.





Now the front (clean) workshop with the CMC. The compressor is no longer in the window. It is in the back workshop under the workbench



By no means large, but it works. One just has to be reasonably tidy. Mmmm Doesnt look that way in the images does it...

So now we can start a thread on workshop images... Come on Guys and Gals. Show us yours....

[Grahame Case]

the workshop in march last year :



we've prettied it up since then, extended our moulding racks, ripped down shelves, and added in a computer system.

used to have the morso up on top of a pallet but have not had since new workshop, not enough space.

[Moglet]

Add three inches to your chopper!!

Things that make you go -->

Merlin, lurv that moulding rack! It's so neat 'n' tidy! (Mine's a series of landslides waiting to happen.... ) Where did you get the brackets?

Grahame - any chance of a big pic of that lovely "manuscript" frame (the one with the gold moulding? Really caught my eye!!!

Will post a pic of my revised workshop layout when I've got it finished, and all the clutter's been sorted out.

[Merlin]

Hi Áine

I went to the local steel workers..

They stand some 2.2 metres tall.
The arms are 25mm squared steel... 400mm long. Welded to a flat stock bar 100mm wide.

Arms are centred on 180mm apart.

If you go down this route.. Do not forget to put end pieces on the arms..
I didnt at first.. and the moulding all fell off... Derrrrrrrrrr
Now got 25mm x 80 flat plates on the end of each one...

[Moglet]

If you go down this route.. Do not forget to put end pieces on the arms.....

I did mention "landslides" earlier, didn't I?

Thanks for the spec, Merlin. I am going to put it into my trusty file of "Useful Things to Make and Do." Assuming all goes well for the next two years and I do relocate the workshop, the moulding rack is going to get particular attention!

[Not your average framer]

The arms are 25mm squared steel... 400mm long. Welded to a flat stock bar 100mm wide.

Hi John,

You may remember mine, the arms and the uprights are made of 2" x 2" planed all round pine with short 45 degree 2" x 2" supports under the back of each arm. The arms, (18" long), have never drooped and the space between the arms is 10".

There are four 5" long, number 12 woodscrews for each arm through the upright into the arm, plus one from underneath the arm into the upright at an angle and each upright is secured to the wall with the same size screws in nice long rawlplugs. All joints are secured with Extramite resin woodglue. The uprights don't go down to the floor, so it's all hanging on those screws and there's about 450 lengths of moulding on there. Fortunately it's a very solid wall.

Currently I can't post any pictures, since photobucket's new software no longer accepts uploads from my 1998 vintage computer and operating system, but I'm hoping to get a new one soon. Today I've been busy trying to make some space and clear out some dead stock, some of which is being turned into framed mirrors.

Now I'm thinking about a mirrors sale! Mmm?

[Spit]

I'm having problems with photobucket meself - can't see any of the pics on this thread!

[Moglet]

Fwiw, I can see images OK (running IE 6/Windows XP).

[Twin Peaks]

I am trying myself to have some sort of racking system on the wall for my mouldings and would like any suggestions of what people use. I have to say the carpentry road sounds a bit dodgy for my abilities.

[Moglet]

Lion do a racking system, TP. Have a look at their online catalogue.

I had to go for as cheap as I could get it, and I have those repositionalble shelving brackets. I've wrapped the brackets in foam sheeting to protect the moudling. However, as Merlin so wisely points out, it's much better to have something at the end to prevent avalanches!

The vertical supports on my system are attached to a hard wall using suitably lengthy screws 'n' rawlplugs (your local hardware merchant should be able to advise you on the correct fixings to use.)

Big Tip From a safety perspective, the higher up the rack you go, put thinner mouldings, box slips and fillets: heavier mouldings on the bottom. Also, it is helpful to put your fastest-moving mouldings at the most easily accessible rack levels.

If I had my time again, and I had the budget, I'd go for a system like Merlin's (above).

[Not your average framer]

I have to say the carpentry road sounds a bit dodgy for my abilities.

I can easily understand you thinking that and originally I only did it that way because at the time I could not afford anything else. However 2" x 2" timber is far stronger than most people realise.

The construction used a kind of cantilever method were the weight on each arm is pivoted on the 45 degree support and therefore exerting and upward force where the arm joins the upright.

As long as the joint with the upright is constructed in such a way that the end of the arm is pushing against something which can never be moved then the glued joint is under compression (not extension) and cannot normally fail.

It's very strong indeed and not expensive to do, but I did however take a lot of care selecting my timber when I bought it.

[osgood]

my 1998 vintage computer and operating system,

This could be the oldest computer still working! You should contact Guinness World Records!

[Twin Peaks]

N.Y.A.F.- any chance of a pic of the construction?

[Not your average framer]

N.Y.A.F.- any chance of a pic of the construction?

I can't post a picture for the forum as Photobucket and others have changed their software and won't left me upload from my very old computer and operating system. Computer is vintage 1998!

I'll take a picture and email it to you!

[John]

I'll take a picture and email it to you!

Mark, email it to me, if you like, and I will post it on this thread.

[Not your average framer]

Mark, email it to me, if you like, and I will post it on this thread.

Thanks John,

I'm just re-charging the camera batteries and then I'll take some pics!