HELP WITH FRAME OVER CANVAS

[DEEPJOY]

Because of irregularities in the folds on a a large canvas corners, the frames lip does not overlap the canvas as it would normally cover glass. What I need is an extended lip over the frames rebate, so is the solution a slip space to fit under the frames lip? Or is it best to make my own moulding with a larger lip over the rebate and hand finish? Oh or a tray frame?

I guess I am providing the answers to my own question, I just wondered if there was any other ideas out there?


NO GLASS IS BEING USED.

[theframer]

I have had this before and i can normally unpick the corners and refold them neater than it has been done and lets me frame them normally,

[prospero]

This is a problem for mouldings designed for general use. Bigger ones aimed at canvas/no glass frames usually have wider
reabate lips - up to 12mm in some cases.
You have to do a bit a fancy footwork.

Make the frame to the sight size. That is, measure the canavas to arrive at a figure that will be the size of the image
that will show. Close to the edge as possible. Then cut the frame so the inner lip of the rebate is this size. Then offer
up the canvas into the frame. If you have done your sums right the canvas should fit along the sides, but the lumpy corners
will prevent it going in. Pencil mark around the lumps. Now you have to nibble out the corners. The best and probably only
easy way to do this is using a Dremel with a sanding drum. On a softish wood it will remove a lot of material quickly. You have
to be a wee bit careful or you can slip and fetch a chunk off the frame lip. So just keep nibbling away until the canvas fits nicely.

Not got a Dremel? Well get one immediately. You won't regret it.


The other way is to fix a fillet around the inside of the rebate. No ideal on many levels. It will encroach about 6mm all round, so
you are losing a fair amount of area of the canvas. Not quite so crucial on a large canvas, but on a small one quite a big proportion.
It's extra fiddly work and you are introducing an extra element into the design which might not be desirable aesthetically.

[DEEPJOY]

Thats great help, thank you all

[maguirei]

We usually do what Prospero does, but don't have a dremel, so use a chisel! We don't generally use it with a hammer, just pressure from your hand (kind of rocking it from side to side) - then there is little risk of taking the rebate off! You do need to have a relatively flat profile for this to work though - so that the rebate edge of the frame is supported.

[Framemaker Richard]

I get this all the time with canvases, especially old ones where the edges are rough, or the stretcher bars are wonky, even many new canvases are very unsquare and need a wider rebate. I just cut the slip or frame at the sight size, then before joining the frame use a table saw to increase the rebate width. Takes a few minutes, and ok a table saw is not in every framers workshop, but deals with this problem very quickly.

[JFeig]

... a table saw is not in every framer's workshop, but deals with this problem very quickly.

I should be on the wish list of every creative picture framer.

[Steve N]

I just use a plain wood slip around 12mm wide (sometimes a gold one) stain/paint it to match frame or gild it, cut I to the sight edge, then cut the frame to fit, works well for this type of problem or when you have a stretched canvas that is out of square. I have a big cutting mat on our front desk, it has a grid on it,the first thing I do when a customer brings in a painted stretched canvas, is place it on the grid to see if it's square, then I know if there is going to be a problem , then I can proceed from there