Oversized Mount/mat boards

Grahame Case · Post by **Grahame Case** » Sat 12 Jan, 2008 11:59 am

customer just brought in a picture 150 cm x 60 cm, and would need it mounted with borders of 10cm

so roughly 170 x 80 cm, 67" x 31.5"

the question is, are there large format museum or conservation quality boards available in this size? and who would be able to cut it?

Post by **prospero** » Sat 12 Jan, 2008 12:52 pm

I have had this prob before and I could not find a board bigger than 60" in the U.K. Even if you could, you have the logistical prob of actually getting the stuff to your door undamged. Sending a couple of sheets by carrier........ I don't think so.

The biggest manual moutcutters will take a 60" board but in this case you need to do a 60" cut. Not sure if any CMCs will do a window that big (??)

One idea.

Rose&Hollis do a flat moulding with a bevel. (refA231). It's only 70mm wide though. But you could make a 'mount' using this moulding and panit it. Cover the back with barrier board.

Best I can come up with.

JFeig · Post by **JFeig** » Sat 12 Jan, 2008 2:38 pm

Have you checked with either Nielson Bainbridge or Crescent - they both have distribution in the UK. They both have 48x96 4 ply rag in white, at least here in the US.

JFeig · Post by **JFeig** » Sat 12 Jan, 2008 2:46 pm

Bainbridge items
8661 = 48x72
8662 = 48x96

Crescent items
2263 = 48x72
2273 = 48x96

Moglet · Post by **Moglet** » Sat 12 Jan, 2008 4:37 pm

Jerome, how do you cut apertures in boards that size?

JFeig · Post by **JFeig** » Sat 12 Jan, 2008 5:07 pm

cutting an aperture (window) in any board that is larger than the capacity of a mount (mat) cutter is done by dis-assembling the cutter. The bar and cutting head are positioned for cutting. A second framer holds the bar in place (or clamps) while the cutting head is operated by the framer in the normal fashion. I cut from the verso side (back) just as when using a fully assembled cutter. Don't forget to place a scrap sheet under the board where the cutting is being done. If 2 positions are necessary to cut a single line, I dip the blade into the first cut to position the board to the cutter(alignment) prior to clamping and cutting.

Tam Lin · Post by **Tam Lin** » Sat 12 Jan, 2008 6:18 pm

When oversize mounts are required, we achieve a similar result to Jerome but without the inconvenience of dismantling the machine.

We use a heavy 48 inch engineers' staightedge and a Logan 2000 hand-held mountcutter. The straightedge can be slid along a pencil line as needed, whilst the Logan remains engaged in the board. It is helpful to have two people on this job, but I have done it single-handed. Any length can thus be cut.

The resulting bevel is indistinguishable from a machine-cut one.

Dave

Roboframer · Post by **Roboframer** » Sat 12 Jan, 2008 7:17 pm

Nielsen Bainbridge do a super jumbo board in alpharag artcare only (I think) and in white .... or white.

They'll also only sell a pack of 25

- doubt if a distribuor would carry them.

Not your average framer · Sat 12 Jan, 2008 7:35 pm

prospero wrote:Rose&Hollis do a flat moulding with a bevel. (refA231). It's only 70mm wide though. But you could make a 'mount' using this moulding and panit it. Cover the back with barrier board.

I've done it that way, but it a PITA to do, like never again if it's something massive. These days I avoid stuff like that.

John's (Robo's) suggested pack of 25 sheets jumbo mountboard would make life a lot easier if you've got the space to cut a mount that big. The remaining sheets could be cut up for normal stock after you are sure you won't need them.

Roboframer · Post by **Roboframer** » Sat 12 Jan, 2008 7:41 pm

Yeah, but at about £20 a sheet it's some outlay!

Grahame Case · Post by **Grahame Case** » Sat 12 Jan, 2008 8:13 pm

i don't think its going to be worthwhile taking on this job, it'll be a real outlay for all that board, and a real PITA to do in our workshop... perhaps when we rejig it and get the new extension on the proteus bench.. but not just now,

Not your average framer · Sat 12 Jan, 2008 8:33 pm

Roboframer wrote:Yeah, but at about £20 a sheet it's some outlay!

Crumbs, I didn't know it would be as much as that!

Roboframer · Post by **Roboframer** » Sat 12 Jan, 2008 8:39 pm

Another option would be a splicing and fabric wrapping, Grahame.

Grahame Case · Post by **Grahame Case** » Sat 12 Jan, 2008 8:43 pm

Roboframer wrote:Another option would be a splicing and fabric wrapping, Grahame.

ooh good idea John, shall mention it to the relevant parties. of course its going to be hideously expensive no matter what course of action we choose,

although i get the feeling the customer won't like the price we give him.

Moglet · Post by **Moglet** » Sun 13 Jan, 2008 12:50 am

Thanks to Jerome and Tammy for the tips on cutting "jumbo apertures"!

gesso · Post by **gesso** » Thu 17 Jan, 2008 7:16 am

on the occasion when a customer has contacted me with this size of mount required ive given them the option of using a wooden mount covered in paper / thin card. Rose and hollis do a slip- like moulding that once chopped and joined has the profile of a beveled mount all thats left to do is either paint it or cover it in fabric or paper. Cutting a large mount in the way suggested earlier IS a two person job. Ive been doing this for twenty years now and if pushed will just abount manage it on my tod

osgood · Post by **osgood** » Thu 17 Jan, 2008 5:34 pm

gesso wrote:on the occasion when a customer has contacted me with this size of mount required ive given them the option of using a wooden mount covered in paper / thin card.

Wood and paper don't have much in the way of archival properties!

Moglet · Post by **Moglet** » Thu 17 Jan, 2008 5:36 pm

Presumably, Gesso, you could line the back of the painted/wrapped moulding with conservation 2-ply board?

gesso · Post by **gesso** » Thu 17 Jan, 2008 6:00 pm

Moglet wrote:Presumably, Gesso, you could line the back of the painted/wrapped moulding with conservation 2-ply board?

Yep 2 ply, 6 ply strips attached with a good archival adhesive

osgood · Post by **osgood** » Thu 17 Jan, 2008 6:20 pm

According to the people who know much more than I will ever know, 2 ply is not enough separation. You really need 4 ply minimum.

Another lurk you could try which would offer better protection than 2 ply is to use Mylar/Melinex for the barrier. Very thin and totally impervious to acid.

No matter what you use, you still can't stop the 'outgassing' from wood in the frame package!