Multi-Aperture Mounts - realistically, should I be using a CMC?

[RobM]

I posted on here about six months ago about niggling issues in cutting multiple windows in a given mount.

I'm trying one again, and even though my use of the manual cutter isn't bad on the whole (I think), it just seems incredibly tricky to do multiple windows without glitches.

In this example, I've got 4 no. postcard-sized pictures that I'm putting into the mount. The ongoing issue I have is "hooking". This occurs specifically when starting one of the windows after the first one, and where the "start cut' measurement is therefore effectively not used.

I don't wish to dismiss the aforementioned conversation where many of you offered some detailed advice (especially John/Roboframer's step-by-step I instructions) on using a manual cutter, but what I want to ask is...do any of you really do multi-apertures in this way? Or do you all just CMCs anyway?

[NTG999]

Hi, I don't have a CMC and have turned down jobs that are multi-aperture; for example 24 cigarette cards etc.
I would be tackling up to about 8 apertures on my mountcutter if they are the same size. I'm not sure why you should have hooking only on the apertures after the first one unless there is some weird movement in the head which is cancelled by the finger. On my machine if slight hooking starts I fit a new blade - approx once a week

[bang]

I posted on here about six months ago about niggling issues in cutting multiple windows in a given mount.

I'm trying one again, and even though my use of the manual cutter isn't bad on the whole (I think), it just seems incredibly tricky to do multiple windows without glitches.

In this example, I've got 4 no. postcard-sized pictures that I'm putting into the mount. The ongoing issue I have is "hooking". This occurs specifically when starting one of the windows after the first one, and where the "start cut' measurement is therefore effectively not used.

I don't wish to dismiss the aforementioned conversation where many of you offered some detailed advice (especially John/Roboframer's step-by-step I instructions) on using a manual cutter, but what I want to ask is...do any of you really do multi-apertures in this way? Or do you all just CMCs anyway?

Is there a bit of a wiggle to your cutting head? Or it could be the pressure and angle you're cutting at?

First, check the cutting head. I'm using a fletcher so an allen key adjustment controls the grip/wiggle on the metal rod.

Second, check your position and how 'intent' you are on inserting the blade on second window cut. When I've been cutting multiple windows I found moving my mount cutter height to a bench at waist level helped. I found I wasn't pressing down on the blade as much.

[JKX]

Sane size apertures with equal margins and spacing should be fairly easy, like anything else, when you know how.

There’s either something wrong with your machine or your technique but if there’s no problem cutting a single aperture then it’s probably the latter .

Personally I generally dislike plain single mounts, regardless of amount of apertures.

Double (or more) multi apertures, V grooved or embossed single or double multi apertures, multi apertures with mount slips (they have to be very accurate to have all the slips cut the same size) and things like that - are all do-able manually but you certainly won’t be charging properly for your time!

Then there’s different sized apertures or lots and lots of apertures, maybe in 8 ply mount board, Then of course it may be nice to add the odd oval, or arched top, or rounded corners.

My CMC could cut a triple mount with however many apertures in however many different sizes or shapes and then emboss or V groove the top mount with all three boards stuck together to start with.

All - and more - a doddle on a CMC, you can even cut a multi aperture mount for those mount slips just to make them flush!
……….and all done in a fraction of the time it would take to even plot manually.; so go for it if you can, and vastly increase the services you offer. Speculate to accumulate.

[pramsay13]

I only have a manual mount cutter and I cut everything on it including multi-aperture mounts.
I've never had to turn anyone away, although once I did visit a friendly framer with a CMC as I had to do 3 frames with around 20 random sizes photos in each.
I think you should fix the issues on your mountcutter first, and then if you have the money and the space then go for a cmc at some point in the future.

[Rainbow]

The most I've done manually is about half a dozen apertures, different sizes. I don't have a CMC. I've never been asked to do more than that, although I think I'd rather do 24 apertures all the same size than half a dozen of different sizes - the maths did my head in.

[JKX]

I don't remember turning a job down due to not having a CMC, but I do remember crossing my fingers and wishing customers with things like sets of cigarette cards would be put off by "OK, but we're looking at £2 an aperture, so tha'ts £50 (or whatever), before we start" Then inwardly going "DAMN"! when they say "OK" - knowing I'd be losing money anyway. You'd have to either have a very modest hourly rate, or capable of doing it very quickly, to make anything, on time.

Post CMC - it's "Sure, no problem, hmmm, two of the cards are landscape ... right, how about a double mount with an oval central for a text aperture describing the set"?

[Keith Hewitt]

John,
Great short video
A picture ( Film) is worth a 1000 words

[RobM]

Hi, I don't have a CMC and have turned down jobs that are multi-aperture; for example 24 cigarette cards etc.
I would be tackling up to about 8 apertures on my mountcutter if they are the same size. I'm not sure why you should have hooking only on the apertures after the first one unless there is some weird movement in the head which is cancelled by the finger. On my machine if slight hooking starts I fit a new blade - approx once a week

Hi NTG. I haven't actually had any orders for multi-apertures yet but I want to be confident in the event it happens.

Have you ever sub-contracted out the mountcutting, when a CMC is required?

To me, the hooking seems to occur when I insert the blade without using the guides (on the windows after the first) meaning I'm slightly less sure, and not holding the top guide down, and so perhaps there's less force when breaking the mount?

[RobM]

Is there a bit of a wiggle to your cutting head? Or it could be the pressure and angle you're cutting at?

First, check the cutting head. I'm using a fletcher so an allen key adjustment controls the grip/wiggle on the metal rod.

Second, check your position and how 'intent' you are on inserting the blade on second window cut. When I've been cutting multiple windows I found moving my mount cutter height to a bench at waist level helped. I found I wasn't pressing down on the blade as much.

Hi Bang. I think you've worded better what I've been trying to describe: it's the intent/confidence with which I insert the blade for the subsequent windows that I letting me down. There's less confidence without the guide and so I'm pressing with less force. Generally, I don't have this hooking issue at any other time, only when I do this.

I could try adjusting the table it's on a little, but I've got quite a few restrictions in the time studio I'm working in! that is a useful point about the height of the cutter, though.

[Gesso&Bole]

To me, the hooking seems to occur when I insert the blade without using the guides (on the windows after the first) meaning I'm slightly less sure, and not holding the top guide down, and so perhaps there's less force when breaking the mount?

As your machine is new, I would guess this technique. I suggest trying using your left hand to hold the guide still (as you do when making the first cut) even though it is not at the edge of the board, and see if you can plunge the blade cleanly. I suspect the cutting head is moving as you make the plunge cut.

Another way to approach this, assuming you have marked in pencil on the back of the mount where you want the cut to start. Is to start the cut earlier, but to start by scoring the mount, not cutting through, and increasing depth gradually, this will 'set' the blade at the right angle, and possibly avoid hooking.

Either way, just need to practise until you build up the muscle memory!

[Rainbow]

I've got 4 no. postcard-sized pictures that I'm putting into the mount.

It's dead easy when all the apertures are the same shape/size, but if you ever have to do multiple apertures of different shapes and sizes, bear in mind that when plotting the layout on the back of the mount, it needs to be a mirror image of the front. Not that I learnt that the hard way of course....

[NTG999]

I haven't but recently a local framer offered to cut me them on his CMC if required so I do now have that option

[Jon_Brooke]

I did 4 mounts for 4 5x5 arrays of postcards by hand - but only the once!

If I can't use the production stop on my Ultimat Futura to set the start of my cut then I set it to 0 mm and push it down with my left index finger onto a line drawn on the back of the mount to mark the start of the cut. At the same time I use my left thumb to both put pressure down on the guide bar, and stop the cutting head from moving towards me, just to make sure the bar is absolutely pressing down on the mount and the head can't move as the blade goes in.

The fact that I need to do this may indicate that my guide bar isn't as well set up as it should be, but it seems to work.

[RobM]

Sane size apertures with equal margins and spacing should be fairly easy, like anything else, when you know how.

There’s either something wrong with your machine or your technique but if there’s no problem cutting a single aperture then it’s probably the latter .

Personally I generally dislike plain single mounts, regardless of amount of apertures.

Double (or more) multi apertures, V grooved or embossed single or double multi apertures, multi apertures with mount slips (they have to be very accurate to have all the slips cut the same size) and things like that - are all do-able manually but you certainly won’t be charging properly for your time!

Then there’s different sized apertures or lots and lots of apertures, maybe in 8 ply mount board, Then of course it may be nice to add the odd oval, or arched top, or rounded corners.

My CMC could cut a triple mount with however many apertures in however many different sizes or shapes and then emboss or V groove the top mount with all three boards stuck together to start with.

All - and more - a doddle on a CMC, you can even cut a multi aperture mount for those mount slips just to make them flush!
……….and all done in a fraction of the time it would take to even plot manually.; so go for it if you can, and vastly increase the services you offer. Speculate to accumulate.

It seems that a CMC, used fully, could allow for so many possibilities. Most of all, it will offer piece of mind in terms of not turning down certain projects. I agree, it's something to strive for but also agree that I just need to keep practising by hand in the meantime.

[RobM]

Besides the comments I responded to directly, thanks to everyone who has had some input into this.

I think there is an overriding theme here: I need to keep practising until my technique is on point.

I'd like to think that I will eventually fork out for a CMC, but I'm feeling determined to get my manual game sorted out first. In particular, I'll focus on the pointers made by Jim and Jon regarding technique.

As ever, I'm reassured by this community. Thank you everyone!