Sloppy fit of bevelled mirrors in swept frames

Not your average framer · Wed 23 Jan, 2008 10:52 pm

Recently I made up a lot of bevelled mirrors in swept frames. I say that they are a sloppy fit is and understatement, as the the rebate size of the frames is easily 6mm larger that the mirrors. Of course if you were framing a canvas, this would be a lot better than being too small.

Since I don't like sloppy off-centre bevels havin looked at imported mirrors in discount shops they usually look reasonably on-centre, I therefore line the frames with strips of mountboard which is not an ideal answer. So does anyone else do anything similar, or do you ignore the off-centre effect?

bigred · Post by **bigred** » Wed 23 Jan, 2008 11:04 pm

How about using a good silicone sealant?

Place the swept frame on it's face, mirror in place and fill around the gap inside the frame with the sealant and allow to dry (24 hours)

Not your average framer · Wed 23 Jan, 2008 11:14 pm

bigred wrote:How about using a good silicone sealant?

Place the swept frame on it's face, mirror in place and fill around the gap inside the frame with the sealant and allow to dry (24 hours)

Hi bigred,

I think I prefer the mountboard strips as I can have it assembled, taped, strung and ready for sale in 10 minutes.

I was just looking for an easier way as the bit of mountboard can get in the way of the backing boards at times.

bigred · Post by **bigred** » Wed 23 Jan, 2008 11:21 pm

Ah, I see. I thought perhaps you were simply creating a stock for sale over a period of time. Sorry!

Lemon_Drop · Post by **Lemon_Drop** » Wed 23 Jan, 2008 11:29 pm

Silicone sealant will stick mirrors into a frame. Those who want to use this method should remember to use selant that is designed for mirrors.

Some silicone selants release acetic acid during curing and can corrode metals, including mirror silver.

Roboframer · Post by **Roboframer** » Wed 23 Jan, 2008 11:34 pm

Not your average framer wrote: the bit of mountboard can get in the way of the backing boards at times.

Why/how?

If the mirror is 4mm thick then make your strips 4mm thick also - everything is flush - pin and seal as normal.

Or ..... stick the mirror central on to the backing board - with whatever adhesive - this (on reflection) is no conservation job. Add some ATG for good measure, just so's you don't have to worry about lying it all flat to go off.

I'd still make the gap flush anyway though.

Not your average framer · Thu 24 Jan, 2008 1:16 pm

Roboframer wrote:If the mirror is 4mm thick then make your strips 4mm thick also - everything is flush - pin and seal as normal.

Hi John,

The mirror is not 4mm thick in the rebate due to the 20mm wide bevel, so the mount board sticks out further anyway. Also the thinner you cut the mountboard the less likely that it will stay flat and striaght.

I have not done this, but I had though about cutting strips the full depth of the rebate and stapling it in place. When taped up these strips would completely hidden, however the framers points would go through the mountboard strips and then into the frame moulding, which I think could well reduce the penetration of the points into the moulding.

Having said that, I have seen the work of others with the rebates lined with 2 ply mountboard and with the framers points through the mountboard.

Not your average framer · Thu 24 Jan, 2008 1:21 pm

Sorry no edit available. It was meant to say:

I have not done this, but I had thought about cutting strips the full depth of the rebate and stapling it in place.

Spit · Post by **Spit** » Thu 24 Jan, 2008 1:23 pm

Econospace spacers are another option.

Not your average framer · Thu 24 Jan, 2008 1:38 pm

Spit wrote:Econospace spacers are another option.

Hi Steve,

That's true, but mountboard out of the scrap bin is free! Personally I think econospace is a bit pricey for what it is!

Spit · Post by **Spit** » Thu 24 Jan, 2008 1:56 pm

Yeah it is, but if I use it it gets added to the total price anyway @50p per foot for the smaller sizes. I just find it makes a quick, easy and robust solution to some problems.

Post by **prospero** » Thu 24 Jan, 2008 2:20 pm

I use quite a lot of cork tiles for sapcing purposes. Cover the back of the tile with double-stick tape and slice it into 10mm strips. You can then chop little bits off and fix them inside the rebate. Good for holding oils on panels in place where you don't want the rebate to encroach too far into the painting. Cork has a nice 'give' to it. Works great for mirrors to stop them rattling about in the frame. Also makes good frame bumpers.

And it's cheap.

markw · Post by **markw** » Thu 24 Jan, 2008 3:23 pm

few dabs of hot melt glue will hold the mirror in place - It takes seconds to apply and is very effective.

Not your average framer · Thu 24 Jan, 2008 6:52 pm

Spit wrote:Yeah it is, but if I use it it gets added to the total price anyway @50p per foot for the smaller sizes. I just find it makes a quick, easy and robust solution to some problems.

50p per foot for scrap mountboard is even better!

kev@frames · Post by **kev@frames** » Mon 28 Jan, 2008 6:20 pm

markw wrote:few dabs of hot melt glue will hold the mirror in place - It takes seconds to apply and is very effective.

thats pretty much what I do.

still on subject, have you noticed that some of the swept frames are slightly oversize, particularly the chinese and mexican ones (I understand this is deliberate)
whilst some of the bevelled mirrors can be slightly under size.