The Framers Forum

You could try Artglass AR99 acrylic available CTS from Centrado. At well as the AR and UV 99 qualities, it is scratch resistant and anti static. It isn’t cheap but not as expensive as the Tru Vue equivalent. We’ve just used a piece and it seemed pretty impressive ( in terms of the AR, tough coating ...

Not wanting to hijack this thread, but I think it's related.. When cutting mounts of different depths, do people subtract the depth of the bevel from the width in order to get exact windows?? I've struggled with this when there's an image with a line around it that the bevel must butt up to exactly...

We usually do what Prospero does, but don't have a dremel, so use a chisel! We don't generally use it with a hammer, just pressure from your hand (kind of rocking it from side to side) - then there is little risk of taking the rebate off! You do need to have a relatively flat profile for this to wor...

We've just moved over the Handepay / EVO payments - with a traditional card terminal (which can do 'phone payments). They gave us a much better deal than our current provider (FDMS).

I think that the amount of damaged moulding we receive has gone up over the years. Are you able to use a supplier with their own van delivery service - this tends to cut down the chances of damage in transit? I would also recommend using the chop service that suppliers offer - it is very rare you ge...

Only do it if we are cutting a piece of glass for the customer to take away! Otherwise a bit time consuming with little benefit as far as I can see.

I will supply it if I'm specifically asked for it - but certainly won't recommend it. Sometimes people bring in pictures for reglazing and want the picture to look like the others on the wall - with AR glass they wouldn't (i.e. because they'd actually be able to see the artwork ).

Yes it is a shame there is no separate section. Probably a combination of lack of support from colleagues in the industry ( I.e. not enough attendees) and a change in technology ( info available on the internet and forums like this for discussion!). I do miss the opportunity to attend Framing relate...

Yes I’m going and no there isn’t a separate section these days. The few Framing related stands are in the Home section ( e.g Gumnar and Simons). If you’re interested in prints and greetings cards there is a good selection of exhibitors in the home section and also the greetings and gift hall. To be ...

I agree it's not a big deal in the grand scheme of things - so why bother actively leaving a gap when it's not necessary? Much easier to tape them with no gap isn't it?

I was taught to tape the longest side as this would give the most secure join - particularly if you have a very narrow but tall item to frame. I guess for most items this won't make much practical difference. If you always tape along the top, then the 1mm probably won't cause a problem, but if you t...

OK I'll try. When you tape the mount to the undermount, you tape along the longest side. When I do this I make sure that the mount is right up to the undermount before I tape the two together. When Mal does this he leaves a gap of around 2mm before he applies the tape. I would argue that when you fo...

I agree that it's very good of Mal to share this video - but it doesn't mean that he is always correct
I notice the video is on the FATG site - presumably as the FATG recommended way of doing things. That makes it all the more important to discuss the content.

I would also recommend LION's chop service - which I've been using once a week for few years now - very efficient. Also unlike Arquadia for example, Lion have the whole range available as chop.

Looks like Centrado moulding 8018WH - though other suppliers might also do it.

Hi Mal, I'm sorry but I'm not convinced by your argument! If the boards are butted together and then taped (say with water based tape) and you then fold them together, that is just like folding a piece of tape over (e.g. to make a V hinge). I really can't see any problem with that. However, I do see...

Sorry to butt in, but I still don't understand why you would leave a gap of 2mm between the boards when attaching the mount to the undermount. When you flatten the "hinge" that 2mm has to go somewhere - i.e. stick out 1mm at the side- which doesn't look good in my opinion and could get dam...

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Thanks
Ian

I would say you need a new cable. If you were nearer you could have my spare one! Make sure you order two!

I've used a similar product (Artcare Restore from Neilsen) on OS maps for a few years now. It's a good solution as the OS map paper is so thin. Artcare restore works at 70 degrees and you only need to have it in the press for 90 seconds or so. I would check your silicone sheet after drymounting an O...